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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to completely re-do the rear end of this thing, so I did a few mods and figured I would share with the rest of you guys and gals. I am no fabricator and this should be fairly easy if anyone else wants to tackle it. Here it goes:

First, I wanted to relocate the tag and got a few ideas from what other forum members did (Thanks BTW!). I ended up running across a swingarm mount tag bracket from a company called Yana Shiki. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=yana+shiki+curved+tag+bracket&hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15281211803995422094&sa=X&ei=XAfoTZCWGYzAgQfY-42FCw&ved=0CEcQ8wIwAA# The one I got was black ($92 after shipping), but you can also get the exact same one in silver or chrome too! It is made to fit a Yamaha R6. After some test fits, I ended up flipping the bracket upside down and here is the end result:



The picture makes it look off, but I promise that it follows the contour of the rear belt gear perfectly. (Had a few beers before taking that pic) ;)

Now for the fun stuff.

I was inspired by the Honda Fury integrated LED taillight offered by sportbikelights.com. After a few emails, (they are still looking for a Stryker rear tail section BTW) They informed me that they simply used a Harley LED strip with a custom bracket. So I did some research and found this: http://www.chromeglow.com/catalog.asp?prodid=651396&showprevnext=1. Bought the 8" smoke lens (offered in a clear lens as well) and also bought the dual element circuit for tail and brake light. Don't remember the exact total but it was around $75 after shipping.

After some test fits, I went to Lowe's and did some looking. I found a straight piece of 1/8" thick metal, 1/2" in width, and about 3 ft long. It was around $8 bucks and located in the same section as all the aluminum and sheet metal. Make SURE you get the steel and not the aluminum as it will not bend like steel. After several mock ups and some bending, I got this as an end result:



As you can see, I drilled the holes at the end to mount with the OEM weld nuts under the factory fender. I sanded the bracket down, used an alcohol pad to clean the surface, painted it with a semi gloss black, then painted with a clear. This is very important since the piece of steel was raw and had all the fun lubricants on it. Rust is bad! :) After a few more mock ups I found the perfect angle and mounted the bar. Then mounted the LED array to the bar and here is the end result:

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll247/brianrogers95/1-1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll247/brianrogers95/2.jpg

This is the left turn signal

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll247/brianrogers95/3.jpg

I think it turned out pretty decent but wanted a little more. So I did more research and found that these lowering links also fit the Strykers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260785367613&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT $40 after shipping.

Here's the final results:

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll247/brianrogers95/1.jpg



All the wiring and installation of everything was pretty straight forward. I think it looks alot cleaner and for about $140 for everything, the price makes it that much better!

Hope this helps someone out. Lemme know if you have any questions!
 

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That tag bracket is by far the best i've seen so far. Great Work MAn!!
 

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Really nice job! Looks clean and mean. How visible are the turn signals during the day? My only problem with that type of taillight is I'm afraid it might compromise safety unless they are super brite. I see too many crotch rockets with cheap LED flashers that have no brightness to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks so much for the positive feedback!

BigDaddyTX said:
Really nice job! Looks clean and mean. How visible are the turn signals during the day? My only problem with that type of taillight is I'm afraid it might compromise safety unless they are super brite. I see too many crotch rockets with cheap LED flashers that have no brightness to them.
It actually lights up pretty bright in every function. I'm still a little concerned during the daytime about people not seeing me but lets be honest...any motorcycle won't be seen as well as a car or truck. Its a bit more of a risk now, but I'm more of a weekend warrior anyways. Also, it does blink fast due to the LED's, but Auto Zone sells inline resistors to increase the load and make them blink normal again. Rather inexpensive, I think around $10.

WLFPAK65 said:
Doesnt Your Plate Have To Be Lit Up At Night When Riding??? How Would U Solve That Problem If So?
Yes the plate is supposed to be lit up and at this point it is not. It's not really much of a concern where I live as far as legality, so I'll leave it unlit until it becomes an issue. I figure the easiest solution would be to run LED lights on the top tag bolts to illuminate the plate. Should be a rather cheap fix too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Not too bad. The toughest part was getting the right bend angle on the steel. The LED wiring was pretty straight forward and the strip stuck right onto the bracket. A few guys on the forum stuck it right on the fender, but making the bracket allowed it to go under the fender and follow the flow of the fender. Just a matter of preference.
 
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