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I've got just over 250 miles on my Stryker as of today. I worry about running it too hard during the break in period cause when I stop somewhere the engine fan kicks on. It is really hard to keep from twisting the throttle because it seems to want to give so much more in all gears. Can I not worry about giving it the business or should I just keep it slow and putt around until the first oil change? Thanks in advance guys and gals.
 

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I broke mine in like i normanly ride so no i did not take it easy and as for the fan coming on that is normal, if you search there is even a thread on it. Iam sure you will get people saying both take it easy and some like me say ride it like you normanly ride.
 

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The biggest thing during break in is not to run at a constant speed/rpm for to long. Varying throttle and rpm helps the rings seat properly. I pretty much run it like I normally would with the exception of changing gears a little more often than normal on long straight stretches where the engine would be cruisi8ng at a steady rpm, eg. downshifting for a bit then up-shifting just to vary the load/rpm on the new motor. Other than that and trying not to hit the rev limit, ride it and enjoy it.
 

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The biggest thing during break in is not to run at a constant speed/rpm for to long. Varying throttle and rpm helps the rings seat properly. I pretty much run it like I normally would with the exception of changing gears a little more often than normal on long straight stretches where the engine would be cruisi8ng at a steady rpm, eg. downshifting for a bit then up-shifting just to vary the load/rpm on the new motor. Other than that and trying not to hit the rev limit, ride it and enjoy it.
Did the same thing . Did not follow Yamah's owners manual recocomended shifting , seemed to lug the engine way too much . Just take care ,because the break in period on the bike really sets in the addiction on you :nod:
 

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The Break in period for mine was the idling part when i was leaving the dealership, soon after was on the interstate like i stole it.. after dyno'ing different bikes and seeing what an "easy" break in and a "hard" break in does, the hard broken motors tend to show better performance and last just as long as the latter...
 

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I bought my bike from someone who works for yamaha motor corp and it had a 1000 miles on it. He said the break in period is just a factory thing from a warranty stand point and that these new engines these days have a very short break in. He said at final assembly just before they crate the bike they they redline through each gear as stress test. It surely can hurt to let everything break in based on the manual but I would not be to stressed about it.
 

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The biggest thing during break in is not to run at a constant speed/rpm for to long. Varying throttle and rpm helps the rings seat properly. I pretty much run it like I normally would with the exception of changing gears a little more often than normal on long straight stretches where the engine would be cruisi8ng at a steady rpm, eg. downshifting for a bit then up-shifting just to vary the load/rpm on the new motor. Other than that and trying not to hit the rev limit, ride it and enjoy it.
Totally agree, I did the same thing :thumb:
 

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First, the fan coming on is more a factor of the ambient temp than anything else. If it were cooler out you could hammer the motor and it would never run...

Break-in for me is the same as cars but easier on a manual tranny. Vary the rpms and don't redline it and you'll be fine. Personally I think it's broken in way before the 1000 mile mark. After the 600 oil change I think it is more than broken in.
 

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I've got just over 250 miles on my Stryker as of today. I worry about running it too hard during the break in period cause when I stop somewhere the engine fan kicks on. It is really hard to keep from twisting the throttle because it seems to want to give so much more in all gears. Can I not worry about giving it the business or should I just keep it slow and putt around until the first oil change? Thanks in advance guys and gals.
I JUST brought my new stryker home yesterday, it has 102 miles on it already ;) Our local dealer said just ride it normally, the main thing I was told was never ride it for really long periods at the same rpm, cycle it thru the rpm range regularly during the break in period but other then that ride it normally.
The manual states that you shouldn't ride it for prolonged periods at high rpm during the break in period.
My fan kicks on as well and as soon as the engine is cooled a bit it kicks off. This is normal =)
 

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I rode it like a bat out of **** when I got mine..
 

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Hi I'm new here. I'm getting my stryker on a few weeks and I have a v&h Twin Slash Staggered Exhaust, Cobra PowrFlo Air Intake, Cobra Fi2000 PowrPro Tuner. The bike is brand new with no miles. My question is should I break it in before I do the mods or just put them on when I get it home?
 

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Hi I'm new here. I'm getting my stryker on a few weeks and I have a v&h Twin Slash Staggered Exhaust, Cobra PowrFlo Air Intake, Cobra Fi2000 PowrPro Tuner. The bike is brand new with no miles. My question is should I break it in before I do the mods or just put them on when I get it home?
I think you could do them right away. They address/adjust the AF mixture but the break-in period has more to do with varying the rpms to seat the piston rings over the entire range etc.

In the end nothing extreme should be fine. No constant same rpm for hours(highway) and no redlining... You can still get on it just don't hammer the crap out of it to the redline. Tough without a tach but if you are really twisting then you are probably close to redline.

YMMV and others will have their opinions so take what I say for what it is: My opinion. If it makes sense to you follow it. If not go for what someone else says.
 

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I bought my bike from someone who works for yamaha motor corp and it had a 1000 miles on it. He said the break in period is just a factory thing from a warranty stand point and that these new engines these days have a very short break in. He said at final assembly just before they crate the bike they they redline through each gear as stress test. It surely can hurt to let everything break in based on the manual but I would not be to stressed about it.
I'm at a loss here? How can they run the motor to red line in each gear without some kind of lubricant? All the dealers I have ever talked to say they are delivered dry in the crate and remain that way until some one buys it then it's assembled and fluids added at that point. Even the showroom floor models are dry. I was left with the assumption that they only had what ever lubricant that was used for assembling parts. Really don't think they oiled them up and started the motor or spun it mechanically to red line and then drained the oil before crating and shipping. That would be a wast of a lot of oil.
 

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I have read and been told all sorts of opinions on this matter.... One write up I read yrs ago said that 2 bikes brand new were broken in... One per factory recommendation and the other one was "Drive it like you stole it".. When the motors were removed and stripped, The motor that was riddin hard looked to be in better shape ie: Cylinders, rings, pistons..... I don't really beat on any of my stuff.... But I surely like to rip!!! I walk that fine line between factory recommendation and "Drive it like you stole it"..... ;)
 

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I'm at a loss here? How can they run the motor to red line in each gear without some kind of lubricant? All the dealers I have ever talked to say they are delivered dry in the crate and remain that way until some one buys it then it's assembled and fluids added at that point. Even the showroom floor models are dry. I was left with the assumption that they only had what ever lubricant that was used for assembling parts. Really don't think they oiled them up and started the motor or spun it mechanically to red line and then drained the oil before crating and shipping. That would be a wast of a lot of oil.
At my Chrysler engine plant, they always filled all lubricants and COLD tested. No gas, just run and leak tested and compression.
 

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I'm at a loss here? How can they run the motor to red line in each gear without some kind of lubricant? All the dealers I have ever talked to say they are delivered dry in the crate and remain that way until some one buys it then it's assembled and fluids added at that point. Even the showroom floor models are dry. I was left with the assumption that they only had what ever lubricant that was used for assembling parts. Really don't think they oiled them up and started the motor or spun it mechanically to red line and then drained the oil before crating and shipping. That would be a wast of a lot of oil.
Good question. Just repeating what he told me but happy to ask him. I stay in semi-regular contact with him and he is easy to talk with.
 
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