[klarowe]

Spent way too much money in the past week on the Stryker, but the outcome was awesome!

1) Vance & Hines Twin Slash staggered exhaust. Got tired of the bulkiness and sound of the stock exhaust so I picked up the Vance & Hines. The sound is incredible... nice deep rumble, not too loud on idle but really opens up with the throttle.
Before:

After:

2) DIY big air mod. I didn't want wifey to end up in prison for killing me so I decided to opt out of a $300 air kit and decided to make my own. Basically this does exactly what the kits do but was a lot cheaper. I'll eventually get a K&N to help it get through the filter better, but this works for now.
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After:

3) Cobra Fi2000 PowrPro Auto-tune fuel programmer. With the exhaust and air filter mod, a programmer was a necessity. Instead of paying $250 for the programmer and another $250-$300 for a tune, I opted to spend a little more and go straight to the auto-tune. So now regardless of what I may change / add, my fuel programming will always be correct. Programmer is tucked under the seat for quick and easy access if needed.

4) Digital Guard Dawg RFID Keyless ignition. I was sick and tired of the horrible key placement on the Stryker (kept forgetting to remove the key) and I really wanted to be able to have a 'demo' and a better understanding of a product I am an authorized dealer for, so I went ahead and picked one up. I absolutely love it... nice and easy, no fumbling with a key, and completely secure since everything is completely tucked away making a 'hot-wire' virtually impossible. I had a **** of a time removing the factory ignition cylinder and ended up having to drill off the heads of the security bolts, but it was well worth it in the end. The ignition connectors are completely re-routed so they are not accessible without taking apart the entire bike. It also really cleaned up the front end. I also removed the really crappy audio setup. I'll eventually do something, but that will have to wait a while.
Before:

After:

Here's a quick video of the Digital Guard Dawg. Don't mind the narration, the video was made to put on my website to 'demo' the system. Don't mind the bad quality... it was taken on my phone.
http://s51.photobucket.com/user/off.../VID_20130324_115444_016_zps6847446a.mp4.html

 

[klarowe]

I don't know what the actual hp gain is from the mods, but the a$$ dyno says it's quite a bit. Maybe it's just because I haven't ridden it in a while, but she pulls like ****. Even lifted the front wheel a bit on a 1st-2nd shift... lol.

 

[kraaazymike]

Hey that keyless ignition is pretty cool! Was that the $189 or the $429 package?

What happens if you walk away with the chip in your pocket and the bike is still running? Will the bike keep running or will it die?

 

[klarowe]

It's the KIM kit ($429). It wasn't cheap, but so far it is definitely worth it. With removing all of the factory components and re-routing the ignition wiring, it makes it virtually impossible for anyone to be able to get the bike started... they'd have to take a lot of the bike apart. Unfortunately it won't do much for someone just stealing the bike, but it's still better than it was before. I'm actually not 100% sure what would happen. I believe that they are designed to not shut off due to the safety factor (battery dying in the key tag while you are driving down the highway) but I haven't tested that yet.

 

[usmarinedelta]

How hard was it to drill out the ignition bolts, I tried and the steel seems really hard.

 

[klarowe]

It wasn't easy. I first tried the method of just using a prick punch and a hammer. I install a few RFID keyless entry systems in cars and this method almost always works, but the bolts apparently had a ton of lock-tite and just would not budge. So I punch a center point and started with a small drill bit to make sure I kept it centered and straight. Then I worked up to a bit just slightly larger than the bolt shaft itself. I drilled that until it was mostly through and then used a large screw driver and the hammer to break the head off to make sure I didn't damage anything by drilling too far. Then once both heads were broken off, the switch came out. From there I used vice-grips to remove the rest of the bolts. They were loaded up with lock-tite. Drilling it wasn't too hard, just had to drill slow and keep some lubrication on it to make sure it didn't work-harden.