Good point.. otherwise your going to have to track all the ts/brake wiring back for a short, which can be a real PITAHave you added any after market electronics, lights, heat demons... or relocated your horn? Sounds like you have something grounding out
Have you added any after market electronics, lights, heat demons... or relocated your horn? Sounds like you have something grounding out
Great advice. All I have to add is to test things in a methodical order. Have the bike running(shouldn't make a difference but you want to be as close as possible to real life) and then do them 1 at a time. And for the brakes hold them there. If you have a direct short to ground it'll blow the fuse right away. If it less then direct you'll have to hold them for a normal light's length etc.Good point.. otherwise your going to have to track all the ts/brake wiring back for a short, which can be a real PITA![]()
First thing I would do is find out what the current draw should be at the ts and brake, then hook up a voltmeter and see what it actually is. The trace it back from there..you could use an ohm meter or hopefully just see something by eye. ...and I know it sounds silly, but just double check to make sure the fuse is properly rated. Good luck, and have a safe trip![]()
Excellent :thumb: Have a fun and safe trip! Shiny side upI found out what it was. At the rear brake switch,the two terminals under the rubber cap were touching together. Simple fix after hours of tracing wires. That switch in my opinion is cheesy. hope won't happen again. Thank you all for your help.
This made me laughHand signals, and middle finger! You are all set !
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