upgrading from the 210 rear to a 235 rear tire?????
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Please use the search button. If you put any effort at all into doing a little reading around on this forum before you posted this you'd know that this has been talked about hundreds of times.jrome46 said:
http://www.yamahastarstryker.com/index.php/topic,347.0.html
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Well to answer the Why? One reason would be like what I am looking for, the best tire size option to keep the configuration, 2.25" drop ride 2 up plus fully packet close to max load limit of 450 lbs, without having to remove parts and grind the swing are etc. That's why I am curious of what brand tire it was if he found a 235 that would fit the Srtyker rim, bike tire or car tire so I can research it.WLFPAK65 said:
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I think that is a tall order Toby ... dropping it 2.25, riding 2 up with 450lbs ...Toby said:Well to answer the Why? One reason would be like what I am looking for, the best tire size option to keep the configuration, 2.25" drop ride 2 up plus fully packet close to max load limit of 450 lbs, without having to remove parts and grind the swing are etc. That's why I am curious of what brand tire it was if he found a 235 that would fit the Srtyker rim, bike tire or car tire so I can research it.
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You might be right dreadly, 450 lbs is the max load the bike will take under average road conditions that you might encounter that with the preload set at #9 would not allow shock to bottom out. I have already had approximately 400 lbs with the 210 /2.25 drop and preload at #1. Only barely bottomed out once on a pretty good pothole. But that was an improper setting on the preload for that much weight. The tail pipe was a bigger problem on corners. I believe it's been confirmed that an Avon 240 /2.25 drop preload set at #7 did not rub with 320 lbs, If I'm correct the preload is designed to keep the shock from bottoming out at maximum load set at #9. Even with a 2.25 drop the shock system should not allow it to compress more than it's designed to at max load. Unless you hit a really big hole. And God knows we have those up heredreadly said:I think that is a tall order Toby ... dropping it 2.25, riding 2 up with 450lbs ...Toby said:Well to answer the Why? One reason would be like what I am looking for, the best tire size option to keep the configuration, 2.25" drop ride 2 up plus fully packet close to max load limit of 450 lbs, without having to remove parts and grind the swing are etc. That's why I am curious of what brand tire it was if he found a 235 that would fit the Srtyker rim, bike tire or car tire so I can research it.
You see where I'm going with this. Some of the 240 tires are actually taller than the stock 40 because they pinch the tire to a greater height. That's what allows the tire to rub on certain parts before the shock bottoms out. So in theory you should be able to increase the width to a point that nothing rubs and if the overall diameter of the tire doesn't increase then you still should get the max load capacity that the bike is capable of handling without the shock hitting bottom or tire rubbing. Make any sense? Sounds good in theory.
I will get out as soon as I get another break in weather and set my preload up and load her up and give it a test run. I will let you guys know what happens. If it works the I will look into a 225 or a 235 . If that doesn't work there is always the 1" setting for 2 up fully pack rides.
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Toby ... the theory sounds good.
I personally think the 2.25 drop is a lot and wasn't meant for riding like you are going to be doing. If it was Yamaha that put out the lowering product, there might be some value in doing the math. Just my opinion though. I am interested in hearing how you fare.
I personally think the 2.25 drop is a lot and wasn't meant for riding like you are going to be doing. If it was Yamaha that put out the lowering product, there might be some value in doing the math. Just my opinion though. I am interested in hearing how you fare.
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PCS is specific to Yamaha , Pacific Coast Star.dreadly said:
So I emailed PCS with my question concerning the 2.25/210/#7-#9 preload full load configuration. So I will let you know what they say. If what I suspect is true then the theory on tire size I assume would be correct.
With 2.5 inch drop I'm sure the stock tire would rub before the shock bottomed out. Setting the pre-load to 9 wont prevent it from bottoming out the shock it will just make it more difficult to do so since your technically just increasing the spring rate a little bit. But then again with 2.5 inch drop i'd be more worried about the the fender supports bottoming out on the tire.
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Yosemite I'm glad you brought this point up. It's one more aspect that has to be clear on this subject.Yosemite said:
The rear suspension travel is 3.9. lowering links do not change the amount of travel. Therefor if the stock tire will rub before the shock bottoms out it will rub links or not. Correct? And yes as I stated before with the preload set at #1 and a 400 lb load the top of the tire rubbed the fender supports when hitting a pothole. Actually it rubbed where the plastic duck tail mounts to the fender not the supports. I believe there is still a 1/2 inch or so more clearance before it could hit the fender supports. That's why removing the duck tail is a good idea if you put a 240 or larger tire on and plan to ride 2 up. So I guess it would still rub the tire with max load, not lowered with stock tire #9 preload if you hit a bump hard anyway. But like I said I will get out in a couple days with preload set at #7-9 with about 400 lbs on her and see what happens. Just to remind every one the biggest problem with the 2.25 drop is the end of the pipes hitting in a corner before the pegs with the 210. But I love the way it handles and looks but would like just a slightly fatter tire that's why I'm so interested in seeing what will work. And I don't plan on riding 2 up very often but there will be times.
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So 11Sryker, where the geometry changes then is, the ANGLE in which the links cause the fender to approach the top of the tire. That's why it hits a different spot than it does with the stock dog bones which causes it to come STRAIGHTER down. After looking at the rear suspension system I could see that there is a pivot point that the shock actually rocks on when depressed. With the PCS links set at 2.25" it pulls the frame FOWARD and down. The 1" slot is in a different spot that changes the angle of the links closer to the angle that the stock dog bones are at. So it's not so much a matter of clearance as it is the change in angle. Does that make sense?11Stryker said:
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Toby, y'all are dazzling me with all this science and geometry...I like it
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Ok, I'm a newbie, so lets get that set right off just in case, lol... For this bike and riding, and with previous posts I admit I don't understand half of the lowering/tire sizes combinations, even from all those other threads I read , but I have an odd question, which i'm sure to get the snowman68, skwerlee, read/search the boards comment. I have, but I'm sure I missed something, and I probably just don't understand. But, like I said I'm a newbie.
But, to expand on Toby's question and, quite frankly his analytical mysticism of logic, at least to me, is there a size that fits the existing rim, and doesn't require bike mods, like changing up the suspension, cut off this that etc... what will would be the comfortable fit with out that, except for the stock tire? Like I said, I am new, and from what it seems 210 to the 240 should be easy...
But, to expand on Toby's question and, quite frankly his analytical mysticism of logic, at least to me, is there a size that fits the existing rim, and doesn't require bike mods, like changing up the suspension, cut off this that etc... what will would be the comfortable fit with out that, except for the stock tire? Like I said, I am new, and from what it seems 210 to the 240 should be easy...
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