Yup been there when I went from quiet to competition baffles it was a challenge. I ended up using a 2” brass wire wheel and I have a flexible extension that is 12” long for my drill a few passes then I fired it up to blow out the carbon deposits, and the new baffles fit in tightly perfect. Never looked back!Anyone have issues replacing the baffles in the vance and hines exhaust for the 15 stryker? Got the old ones out the new ones won't go in. Now I'm stuck with a vance and hines with no baffles way too loud to ride.
Probably going to have to get a shop to do it. It went in about half way and jammed then tore coming out. I'm just defeated right now. Debating if I need to spend 700 on a new exhaust.Yup been there when I went from quiet to competition baffles it was a challenge. I ended up using a 2” brass wire wheel and I have a flexible extension that is 12” long for my drill a few passes then I fired it up to blow out the carbon deposits, and the new baffles fit in tightly perfect. Never looked back!
i changed my V&H from stock to "quiet" . I need use a 5 pound slide hammer to remove. Even so I bent the retraction rod and need to repair. PLUS the old baffles left behind baked on debris on the interior of the cans. I used a "flapper" on a drill to clean the pipe interior (about 2 hrs) > I lubricated the exterior of the new baffles with high-end-heavy grease. They went in snug giving challenge to lining up the secure screwAnyone have issues replacing the baffles in the vance and hines exhaust for the 15 stryker? Got the old ones out the new ones won't go in. Now I'm stuck with a vance and hines with no baffles way too loud to ride.