Check the normal stuff and if you have a tender throw it on. Look for lose or corroded connections. Good thing is that batteries and the connections are pretty good about telling you if something is wrong.
Had a few instances where I killed the bike while riding and it didn't want to start w/ the clutch pulled in and in gear but that is more like it gets caught between a compression stroke. Moving the bike a little helps that but if in neutral that shouldn't be the case.
If this continues there is a good YouTube video on checking the battery and what the voltages should be at X points. To test the starting capacity you need to pull the fuel pump fuse so it cranks but doesn't start.
If you stored it improperly over winter/non-riding season the battery could be toast but some chargers can bring them back from the beyond... Bottom line is that anything over 2-3 weeks probably needs a tender to keep things happy. And if the non-load reading is anywhere near 10 volts you have a dead cell and crapola battery
Post back and let us know.
Had a few instances where I killed the bike while riding and it didn't want to start w/ the clutch pulled in and in gear but that is more like it gets caught between a compression stroke. Moving the bike a little helps that but if in neutral that shouldn't be the case.
If this continues there is a good YouTube video on checking the battery and what the voltages should be at X points. To test the starting capacity you need to pull the fuel pump fuse so it cranks but doesn't start.
If you stored it improperly over winter/non-riding season the battery could be toast but some chargers can bring them back from the beyond... Bottom line is that anything over 2-3 weeks probably needs a tender to keep things happy. And if the non-load reading is anywhere near 10 volts you have a dead cell and crapola battery
Post back and let us know.