[nogard]

I recently had issues with my stock horn, so i purchased a Wolo419 Air Horn. I wasn't tech savy, so i didn't bother with a relay. I was told by a few forum members, that it wouldn't matter anyway! Below is my story:

I got my 1st 419 airhorn off amazon. My mechanic friend, and I used the original horn location mount point, and went to work. We plugged in the horn to test it, and it was perfect. We began to tighten it down as hard as possible, so it wouldn't bounce around. Once all the hardware was in place, we attempted the horn again - and it was dead. It sounded like an air power wrench.

I got my 2nd one that night, from harbor freight. It was the same situation, we tested it, mounted it tight, then tested it and it was dead as the other.

I woke up the next morning, so frustrated. I looked at both parts and I found this hole:


I returned my amazon and harbor freight horns, and got 1 replacement. Ran to home depot for a much smaller bolt / nut, and FIXED... It worked like a charm.

--

I took my wife on a nice cruise tonight, and just blaring the horn. Happy as could be, then ... nothing. No horn, no turn signals, no lights in speedo.. S$IT. I rushed to call Patrice / Mechanic Guy .. anyone. I turns out i blew a **** fuse from this horn.

---

I'm only posting this for a heads up. It's embarrassing, but looks like I should have done the relay. I'll be riding to Maggie with no horn .

 

[J4patrice]

Don't worry Josh. I am bring my stock horn so you won't be without a horn too long.

 

[BillyD66]

Don't worry Josh. I am bring my stock horn so you won't be without a horn too long.

Did your stock horn crap out? If not put it back on for a temp solution. The meep-meep is waaaaaaay better than nothing at all. We'll sort the rest out down there. Trust me it isn't complicated. I once explained a 3-way circuit to my DB2 DBA friend in if-then-else lingo so he could get it. Worked like a charm
And even if it did crap out, get a cheap replacement from AZ etc. for the ride.
Be safe my friend and see you Sat at 1:00 for lunch.
Dreaming of MV!!!!

 

[DraEagWol]

ok.. here's a temp solution... stop by wally world and get ya an air horn and zip tie it to the bike... and wala! ok.. seriously though.. that suks.. but its good to know not to forget the relay when doing anything electrical to our bikes...

 

[klarowe]

A lot of people get nervous when it comes to a relay... but all it is is an electrical switch. Your coil (pins 85 & 86) work as your 'fingers' and flip the switch when there is a current going across it. Pin 87 & 30 are your connection points that are made when you flip the switch (input & output). In a 5 pin relay, pin 87a is normally closed (connected) to pin 30 and open (dis-connected) when the relay is 'on'.

So for the horn, here is the setup you need:
Pin 85 to chassis ground
Pin 86 to factory horn connection (should be able to put the connector directly on the relay terminal)
Pin 87 to a fused 12 volt source (the battery is your safest bet)
Pin 30 goes to the new horn's power input.
Pin 87a (if equipped) just needs to get a connector on it to prevent it from shorting. If connected exactly as above, there will never be 12 volts on that terminal, but it's always safe to protect it just in case.
Then just ground your horn and you are good to go. With a relay, you will get more current to the horn and it will be louder than it was without the relay. Aftermarket horns tend to pull a higher current than the factory horn and should always have a relay.

 

[nogard]

It's important to note about this story is being safe when you mount it too. I completely wrecked two because I assumed the bolt was fine.

 

[BillyD66]

A lot of people get nervous when it comes to a relay... but all it is is an electrical switch. Your coil (pins 85 & 86) work as your 'fingers' and flip the switch when there is a current going across it. Pin 87 & 30 are your connection points that are made when you flip the switch (input & output). In a 5 pin relay, pin 87a is normally closed (connected) to pin 30 and open (dis-connected) when the relay is 'on'.

So for the horn, here is the setup you need:
Pin 85 to chassis ground
Pin 86 to factory horn connection (should be able to put the connector directly on the relay terminal)
Pin 87 to a fused 12 volt source (the battery is your safest bet)
Pin 30 goes to the new horn's power input.
Pin 87a (if equipped) just needs to get a connector on it to prevent it from shorting. If connected exactly as above, there will never be 12 volts on that terminal, but it's always safe to protect it just in case.
Then just ground your horn and you are good to go. With a relay, you will get more current to the horn and it will be louder than it was without the relay. Aftermarket horns tend to pull a higher current than the factory horn and should always have a relay.

Just FYI, the Wolo is a 4 pin relay. Same basic connections but one less contact.
2 wires from the original horn to 85/86, power from battery(need to add inline 20A fuse) to 30 and 87 to one contact on the horn. Ground the other horn's contact to chassis. And just to be sure there are instructions with it as well Granted they are typed really small but bring them up online allows you to zoom as needed...

 

[SmokenJoe]

I have the Wolo right now without a relay. Haven't blown any fuses since the mounting and use.
12V is 12V.................whether it comes from a relay or stock wiring. Why would it blow a fuse going directly to battery but not through a relay?....................The relay is there to protect the wiring. If what you are adding has more amps the the wires are rated for, that's where the relay comes in. JMHO

 

[Guest]

I have the Wolo right now without a relay. Haven't blown any fuses since the mounting and use.
12V is 12V.................whether it comes from a relay or stock wiring. Why would it blow a fuse going directly to battery but not through a relay?....................The relay is there to protect the wiring. If what you are adding has more amps the the wires are rated for, that's where the relay comes in. JMHO

The stock horn switch, as well as the stock horn circuit, is not rated at high enough amps to run the Wolo horn. This doesn't mean that it won't work - for a while, anyway. The relay is used to protect the switch and stock horn circuit. The fuse is used to protect the wiring, relay, battery and horn, otherwise know as the circuit.

 

[klarowe]

I don't know about the Wolo, but most aftermarket horns draw more current than factory. In some vehicles that's fine because the switch, wiring, and pre-existing fuses can handle it... but it all depends on the what the factory stuff is rated for.

 

[BillyD66]

I don't know about the Wolo, but most aftermarket horns draw more current than factory. In some vehicles that's fine because the switch, wiring, and pre-existing fuses can handle it... but it all depends on the what the factory stuff is rated for.

Trust me on our bikes you want the relay. The original wiring for the horn is thin gauge. Sooner or later you'll run into problems and considering it could be when you are laying on the horn because you need to I'm sticking w/ my relay.

Joe, volts is only one aspect of Ohms law. If you are just occasionally using the horn for short bursts you'll be fine. Risk is there with the circuit but you'll probably be fine.
I cannot tell you how many times people have said of their home wiring projects "It works..." when they know dam well they took shortcuts. I always reply the same way "Just because it works doesn't make it right or anywhere near code"

 

[klarowe]

I'm all about using the relay... I use relays for just about everything (especially owning a mobile accessories sales / install business).. lol. I would NEVER use factory wiring on an aftermarket horn on any motorcycle. The wiring is not designed for heavy draws.

 

[SmokenJoe]

Does anyone know what amps the stock/wolo are?

 

[Guest]

Does anyone know what amps the stock/wolo are?

According to the Stryker service manual, the stock horn uses 3 amps max. The Wolo manual calls for a 20 amp fuse. Though it doesn't state what the horn actually pulls, it likely more than 3 amps.

 

[klarowe]

IIRC, most basic aftermarket horns are roughly 8-12 amps.... but that is very generic, and I'm sure a lot of them vary.

 

[mikoloe]

Wires.........relay......wolo.......battery.......stock .....who uses the horn anyways!

I'll drink to that...


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[11Stryker]

Wires.........relay......wolo.......battery.......stock .....who uses the horn anyways!
QUOTE]
Us Horny people do!:wink:

 

[mikoloe]

Wires.........relay......wolo.......battery.......stock .....who uses the horn anyways!
QUOTE]
Us Horny people do!:wink:

aaaawwwwwwwhahahhhahaha, good one!

 

[BillyD66]

According to the Stryker service manual, the stock horn uses 3 amps max. The Wolo manual calls for a 20 amp fuse. Though it doesn't state what the horn actually pulls, it likely more than 3 amps.

Yea the 619 calls for a 20A fuse as well and 16 gauge wire or heavier on the power side. I used #14 since for AC applications even that is undersized for a 20A. Considering auto fuses come in 10 and 15 as well I'd say that the Wolo probably draws a fair amount on start-up and the larger fuse saves nuisance trips.