[2491]

The neutral light is part of the safety circuit. If the LED is bad, it will keep the circuit open to the neutral safety switch, and can be overridden by the clutch switch. Jump the wire for the light at the connector to ground. If the LED lights you know it's definitely a bad switch, if not, replace the LED.

You said you checked the continuity on the switch, did you check voltage?

Ok thsnk you Stryker 2012....... I needed to find a way to check the light........ as far as voltage..... no just continuity.........

 

[2491]

Just to be clear the bike physically goes into neutral? By that I mean with it off shift into neutral and test to see that the bike moves. If not I believe there were threads on adjusting the clutch cable to make this happen easier.

Assuming the bike moves, I believe there are a number of the safety switches that all plug into the starting relay(?) and some probably override one another. Others would have to post and test on that aspect but I think you definitely need to have the kickstand up and the kill switch in the run position but can either be in neutral or have the clutch pulled in to start the bike.

Since you said the bike starts and runs I'll assume we are down to the neutral sensing switch/wiring or the possibility the relay is bad.
Be methodical and test each circuit(switch, wires, end-to-end etc.) Whether they are open or closed "normally" is just based on how they were designed. In other words they could be opposite of what you'd think but still be fine. Make sure the switches go from open to closed if at all possible.

BTW, I'm hoping 5 hours was just a wild asses guess on their part because otherwise it means things are really buried and this is going to be difficult.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.

Thanks Billy D66...... it does go into neutral and runs great....... it will shut off when the kickstand is put down even in neutral and the only way to start it is with the kick stand up pull in the clutch then itll start and run........ I did a continuity test on all switches at the wires just to see if they were operating and they are...... the 5 hrs is just what they do...... chargen5 hrs then tell u whats wrong...... if they need more time then they start changing by the hr till they find out or the customer hollars uncle!!!!

 

[Guest]

The neutral light is part of the safety circuit. If the LED is bad, it will keep the circuit open to the neutral safety switch, and can be overridden by the clutch switch. Jump the wire for the light at the connector to ground. If the LED lights you know it's definitely a bad switch, if not, replace the LED.

You said you checked the continuity on the switch, did you check voltage?

Really? I'm not doubting you so much as not seeing that in this diagram. Unless I'm missing something...and I very well could be.

 

[gerdawg]

I'd personally check all the fuses first if you haven't already. Not that it's likely going to be the issue but it's worth a shot.

Here is the manual for the bike taken from another post on this forum:
http://www.mediafire.com/?1n2h5yjk1nlygwq

On page 8-29 is the diagram break out with item 35 being the actual neutral indicator light which is an LED.
The multifunction meter is item 36 which I'm assuming is the speedo/highbeam/etc panel.

I'd personally pull the cover off the top of the bike display and check the LED for voltages while the bike is in neutral then trace back from there.

 

[BillyD66]

Really? I'm not doubting you so much as not seeing that in this diagram. Unless I'm missing something...and I very well could be.

Looking at the attached diagram and write up I'm leaning heavily towards the neutral switch not thinking it is in neutral. Your description of what you have to do to start the bike is "b" on the diagram. If "a" were satisfied you could start the bike... I start it all the time with the kickstand down and clutch disengaged.

A quick check would be to remove the wire connector from the neutral switch and jump the pins to make it closed. At this point I would think the neutral light should come on. If that is true then either the switch is bad or what makes the switch close is not happening.
CAUTION: If you want to try and start the bike this way make sure it is indeed in neutral by moving it. DO NOT leave the switch jumped since that would be extremely dangerous and is for diagnostic purposes only. End of CYA Again good luck. I think you are very close.

 

[gerdawg]

The light looks like it's tied into the ignition fuse (71), the starting circuit cut-off relay (13) and tied in together using the neutral switch (15).

Based on this I'd say check the ignition fuse but you'll likely find on the speedo panel that the LED is bad or there is a bad solder joint IMO.

 

[gerdawg]

Just re-read the other posts where the bike won't start in neutral with the kickstand down.

I'd agree check the kickstand switch first like Billy points out. Pull the plug on the neutral switch, jump the wires and see if it works...that likely will be the culprit.

I thought this was already done..sorry!

 

[Guest]

I'd personally check all the fuses first if you haven't already. Not that it's likely going to be the issue but it's worth a shot.

Here is the manual for the bike taken from another post on this forum:
http://www.mediafire.com/?1n2h5yjk1nlygwq

On page 8-29 is the diagram break out with item 35 being the actual neutral indicator light which is an LED.
The multifunction meter is item 36 which I'm assuming is the speedo/highbeam/etc panel.

I'd personally pull the cover off the top of the bike display and check the LED for voltages while the bike is in neutral then trace back from there.

The thing to remember when looking at this manual is that it covers 2 different bikes. Ours is the 2nd one (XVS13CA(C)), so in this case, it would be the diagram on 8-31.

If the ignition fuse was blown, the bike wouldn't start.

 

[gerdawg]

Noted...and to be honest I'm not really looking at the 8-31 page either..I'm looking at the wiring diagram that's in color on the last page of that manual.

For all intents and purposes, both diagrams appears to be the same for both bikes in relation to the LED light for neutral so it doesn't seem to matter which diagram you pick.

Looks like they mostly took the vstar 1300 engine and wiring and moved it to a stryker frame. Lol

 

[Guest]

There may not be any differences in this case. It was more of a heads up because throughout the manual there are differences to be noted.

But I still see nothing in any of the diagrams that leads me to believe that the neutral LED is wired in series with anything in the starting circuit. IOW, nothing that indicates a bad LED would cause the starting circuit to otherwise malfunction. Only that it won't illuminate if the neutral switch is not closed.

 

[chris]

at what point (wire/connection) on the bike did you test the neutral switch. The problem is going to be in the circuit of the neutral switch. If its not the neutral switch itself then its going to be where the heck ever they have the diodes at you see in the schematic because from there is where it separates for the light and for the bike to start since your not getting either. i attached a pic of the schematic 15 is the neutral switch coming off of it is the wire Sb which looks to go into a connector or relay junction and that is where it separates Sb/w goes to the light and B/Y from what i can tell is your circuit for it to allow it to start

 

[Guest]

It looks like it would either be the neutral switch or the relay designated (7) in the starting circuit cutoff diagram I referenced above. Or the wiring to either, of course - at least in the case of the neutral switch ground.

 

[chris]

computer guy I like your little pig quote lol

 

[Guest]

Thanks. Lol. I'm not the originator, but I can't remember where I heard it first.

 

[2491]

Thank you everyone....... I will look at it this weekend and will let everyone know what I find........ some things I have already done but alot I havent...... Thank you all again

 

[chris]

No no no we are all waiting patiently for you to go troubleshoot and tells us what the problem is we are not gonna wait til the weekend. Jk jk

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

 

[BillyD66]

No no no we are all waiting patiently for you to go troubleshoot and tells us what the problem is we are not gonna wait til the weekend. Jk jk

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

I feel the same way. My riding season is just about over so this is all I have left... If I could ride then of course I'd be like "sucks to be you dude..." Just kidding. Always nice to see the final resolution since sooner or later all of us will encounter the common issues that any given vehicle has.

On a side note, I love how cars throw a code indicating that the check engine light could not be illuminated. I mean who would ever see that???
In Illinois it would be when you have to get the OK from the airteam and then wouldn't you be surprised!!

 

[Stryker2012]

Really? I'm not doubting you so much as not seeing that in this diagram. Unless I'm missing something...and I very well could be.

It's actually under lighting circuit. It shows a path from the neutral light to the neutral safety switch, the other circuits come from the clutch and sidestand, so the clutch can close the circuit to ground when disengaged. I still think it may be a faulty switch, that's why he needs to check the voltage and not just continuity. It might be an open circuit before the switch, and the only thing I can see is the LED. That's why I mentioned he should run a jumper and see if the light is actually burned out.

I had a Ford LTD that I took the dash apart to replace the heatwer core. I drove around a few days with the dash apart, and the battery died. Found out the "alt" light in the dash was part of the charging circuit.

 

[Guest]

What I see when I look at the circuit diagram is the dependency of the neutral light on the neutral switch, but not vice versa. And this is supported by the absence of the light from the start circuit diagram.

 

[Guest]

I retract.. I was trying to look at the schematics on the computer at work, and with all the crap IT loads on (it's health care) it's hard to navigate efficiently, but you're right...my bad.

Bad switch...

NP. I was fairly sure I was reading the schematic correctly.

If the switch is good, it could be the relay unit diode designated #7 in the start circuit diagram, but since the neutral light doesn't come on, I agree it's probably a bad neutral switch.