[dagreatbadfinger]

stupid question and i think its basically been answered - if you go with the 12" bars, and 1 1/2" risers - you dont have to change any of the cables out? just straight swap of the bars?

 

[Jsanders715]

stupid question and i think its basically been answered - if you go with the 12" bars, and 1 1/2" risers - you dont have to change any of the cables out? just straight swap of the bars?

Correct. The only thing I had to do with the cables was reroute them to come up from behind the triple trees vs. going out and up from in front.

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[mikoloe]

I have 12 " apes and 4" risers, I only had to order a new brake, throttle cables and clutch line.

 

[chuckem12]

Thanks for this thread! I just ordered my bars earlier today. I am hoping to do it all without having to spend any additonal money...but I'm sure something might pop up.....

I'm I right to assume that the Avon grips I have on the factory bar will slide onto the FMB bars without any issues?
If I did want to order a brake line, where/what size/length would be best?

 

[Jsanders715]

Thanks for this thread! I just ordered my bars earlier today. I am hoping to do it all without having to spend any additonal money...but I'm sure something might pop up.....

I'm I right to assume that the Avon grips I have on the factory bar will slide onto the FMB bars without any issues?
If I did want to order a brake line, where/what size/length would be best?

The grips should slip right on. I changed my grips but used the stock throttle sleeve, fit perfect. As for the brake line, I did 12" bars w/ 2" risers, I did not need a new brake line. Realistically, since the bars and brake assembly pivot on the same axis, unless the bars are too tall, the brake line doesn't stretch around or twist when riding.

 

[chuckem12]

Finally came in Saturday evening.....and yes, I jumped into it right away! The new handlebars, 12" plus 2" risers, definitely add a level of comfort I was wanting for this bike. I had been looking for a new set but didn't want to fork over the $500+ that it normally costs with other manufacturers. The bars came out to $260 on Amazon. The install doesn't require any specifc special tools but does require an array of hand tools. BEFORE you tear your bike apart, make sure you have all the tools you'll need.... (My risers caps thread from the bottom and a standard Allen Wrench wouldn't fit...but a size 6 bit and a 1/4" wrench worked!). The cables and brake line from the factory do work. MY brake line has plenty of slack for this project as do my throttle cables and speedo bundle. MY clutch cable fits just-right....however ANY higher and I would definitely need a new cable.

After a couple test runs around the block, the biggest PITA was getting the clutch cable set properly....took a good bit of trial and error. Then, I took her out for a 200mile ride. The comfort is definitely noticeable and the height of the bars definitely, IMO, fit the bike's lines.

Couple things to note:
1: It is definitely more comfortable!

2: Not all Strykers are created equal.....in terms of cables and lines anyway...ive seen a couple different layouts and routings and each on seems to be different based on how the cables are cut/set from the factory. I included a picture of how my lines sit so you can use as a reference along with all the others that have made this mod.

3: This is not a quick project....it does take some time......I started roughly at 6pm and finally finished the setup at about 1120pm. Granted I took my time and had to go find longer bolts at Lowes for my risers. I'd say expect to take at least 4 hours because of all the wire routing and positioning trial and error. I'm a pretty decent mechanic and have a lot of different tools but it still took me some time to finish and accomplish.

4: TAKE YOUR TIME! you don't want to cut wires or clamps or something you'll regret. See how things connect and how their layed out. Sometimes, its easier to take the whole thing apart than to just try and remove one small tidbit.

5: The 17" Rifle shield and brackets do still fit after the bars are installed. Obviously it will depend on the angle you set the bars at.

6: It will take a bit to get used to the new way/style of low speed manuvering...because the bar are higher, the way bike handles a bit differently at first... I noticed it on the first couple neighborhood runs when I was testing it out. After being on the road for a while you re-learn how to handle the bike at different speeds.

7: When you test fit, turn the bars all the way left and all the way right to verify no issues.

So far I'm pleased with the bars and price and feeling and ride as a whole. Definitely recommend these bars and definitely recommend you do them yourself (just another way to get to know your bike and not pay hundreds for someone else to do it).

 

[Jsanders715]

Nice job chuckem! I love mine so much, I'm just not sure I would enjoy riding with the factory bars again!

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[chuckem12]

Nice job chuckem! I love mine so much, I'm just not sure I would enjoy riding with the factory bars again!

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Thanks J. Yeah, I replace the bars on all the bikes I own....I just prefer the comfort....factory bars always make me feel like I'm slouching or hunching. Now, i'm debating on getting rid of the right mirror. Because of the new height, I can use a single mirror and see behind me fairly clearly....that and I always look to switch lanes too.

 

[bdubz]

I bought the FMB bars and had the owner make them to my specifications, at no additional cost per his website.
I had the bar uprights widened so they line up with the fork tubes. This gave me the grip width I wanted as well as the look I was going for.
I had the bars chromed at Librandi's Plating. FMB does not offer chrome. If you are going to get them chromed have David ship them raw.
David welded the speedo mount at an angle I specified. If you look at his pictures the angle of the speedo mount is almost horizontal.
I extended the wiring from the two switch housings, using a wiring extension kit for a Harley Street Glide, and routed them through the bars for a cleaner look. This step is very tedious, a lot of soldering, shrink tubing, and pulling.
I purchased 12" extended, stainless throttle and clutch cables, as well as the brake line. The extended cables and brake line are worth the cost so you have the slack to run the cables and brake line correctly. This is important as you do not want to stress any of them.
I am still toying with the angle and riser heights. At the moment I have LA Choppers 3" chrome risers, but I may change them to 1 1/2".
The bottom line is a bar change with additional height is expensive if it is done with no shortcuts. I have mounted apes on my son's Harley Street Glide, the FMB bars on my Stryker, and will be mounting apes on a friend's HD Fat Boy Low when he decides on the bars. Done with patience and the right parts the result will be very clean looking and there will be less chance of problems.
If anyone has any questions on the process PM me. I will do my best to answer all your questions.

I love how your bars came out. Do you mind sharing what specs you gave for the width of the bars and the angle he set the speedo to?

 

[dragunovguy]

Specs

For the width between the bars I used the center to center dimension of the fork tubes. For the speedo mount I had David weld it on at an angle down 15 degrees from where he normally welds it.
As far as the cables and wiring are concerned, the cables and brake line look better when they loop over towards the center of the forks, more like they come from the factory, rather than running straight down from the controls. But, you need longer cables and brake line to do that. Routing the wiring through the bars is tedious and time consuming, but gives you a much cleaner look when you are finished.
I've customized quite a few bikes, Harleys, Hondas, and Stars, and I always take my time and do a clean, professional job, whether I am doing a favor or getting paid for it. But, that's just the way I do things. The other Stryker owners that have used the FMB bars have all done a good job and achieved the result they were looking for.

 

[bdubz]

For the width between the bars I used the center to center dimension of the fork tubes. For the speedo mount I had David weld it on at an angle down 15 degrees from where he normally welds it.
As far as the cables and wiring are concerned, the cables and brake line look better when they loop over towards the center of the forks, more like they come from the factory, rather than running straight down from the controls. But, you need longer cables and brake line to do that. Routing the wiring through the bars is tedious and time consuming, but gives you a much cleaner look when you are finished.
I've customized quite a few bikes, Harleys, Hondas, and Stars, and I always take my time and do a clean, professional job, whether I am doing a favor or getting paid for it. But, that's just the way I do things. The other Stryker owners that have used the FMB bars have all done a good job and achieved the result they were looking for.

Really appreciate the response. Just picked mine up a couple weeks ago coming from a Bolt that I had done a lot of customization on. Been using my apes so long, it's been strange to ride without them. Looking forward to jumping into this one!

 

[Draeger]

Wow, I'm quite impressed.

Everyone who has jacked up their bars tells me how comfortable they are. I find my current stock setup extremely comfortable, so have no pain compelling me to move... but when you hear that over and over... you start to wonder.

I'd love to try out what it actually feels like before investing in the mod.

Nevertheless, a really great look you've got going there. Nice work, and thanks for letting us all in on how you managed to make it work. I'm sure many guys will be referring to this post in the future.

 

[twisted_wrench]

Talk about bringing to life a dead horse. I put 16's on with a 1.5 inch riser. Got cables from Mean Streak Cycle. Super comfy.